Can you use an automatic radiator in a manual

Engine hoist: Cheap, Northern Tool sort of thing. Parts not including engine work, mistakes, lost parts, etc. PPF: This is the rail that runs from the differential to the transmission along the driveshaft to keep things in line. It is different for the manual transmission.

Clutch pedal assembly: This goes inside the car under the dash at the firewall to the left of the brake pedal assembly. I cleaned mine up with a wire brush, hit it with some black spray paint and gave it a new pedal pad. JUST the pedal will work just fine! Clutch pressure plate bolts: 6 of them. NB2 cars present some additional challenges due to the fact that if you replace the ECU you must also replace the immobilizer and re-synch the keys..

Gear lever: Used or new. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on how to rebuild a gear selection lever. It has eight parts that must go in very specific order for everything to work smoothly. These are the rubber boots not the leather trim boot.

Clutch line pipe : Runs from the clutch master cylinder to the hose at the slave cylinder Clutch hose: Runs from the end of the clutch line pipe to the slave cylinder Clutch master cylinder: Mates at clutch pedal at the firewall in engine bay. Clutch slave cylinder: Mounts on transmission at clutch fork Clutch assembly: Cover, friction plate, pilot bearing, throw-out-bearing and pilot tool I chose an ACT kit or package. Pictures, drawings, tracings, and notes will help.

I kept a few poster boards on the wall to make reminders I did NOT try to salvage parts to the automatic as I went. Just more trouble than it could ever be worth. On top of that these parts are heavy and shipping them would cost a fortune. From under the car disconnect all the crap that is attached to the auto transmission. Trust me there is a lot of it. Keep the wire harness safe from harm but all the rest will become garbage.

So the carpet popper tool works well for prying most of it off. You will have hard transmission lines running to the radiator from the automatic transmission which can be cut out in sections and then removed. After cutting them back at the radiator you can just unscrew them at the radiator fittings. Pull the exhaust downtube. Watch the O2 sensors! You cannot just pull the bolts and expect the frame to come free.

You will get the idea once you have done one. When mounting the clutch pedal you will want to cut away some of the firewall insulation and matting. Which includes a braided stainless hose from the pipe to the cylinder. The hose is also supposed to make the bleeding process easier.

Pull the front O2 sensor and wire 1 piece and set it aside. Do not leave it woven through the back of the engine. The clutch pedal you get may or may not have switch on it, if it does simply remove it. You will just override it at the transmission anyway.

Pilot bearing is pressed or tapped in to place. You can use the freeze-heat method or just go for it. You can mount the slave cylinder to the transmission before putting the engine back in.

You will never have access to the rear heater core hose like you do when the engine is out if you pulled it so at least do that one. The 1. DO NOT fill the manual transmission with oil unless you have a way of sealing the driveshaft output. When the engine and radiator do not receive the right flow of coolant, then it it can cause radiator problems. If a faulty radiator is not repaired, then it could also cause damage to the transmission if the transmission fluid is cooled using the radiator.

Table of Contents. Didn't know the tranny cooler was a separate system. I've always had cars with manual transmissions and never ran into this before. Shows you how often I do radiator work! It's easier for the manufacturer to make one design. So they designed it with the AT fittings. For manual tranny, you just don't use them. Everything else is the same. And by "knit", I mean "kick", and by "sweaters", I mean "babies". All times are GMT The time now is PM.

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